A few days ago, I was scrolling through old photos and found myself transported back to our summer walking holidays in the Swiss Alps over two decades ago. Two trips to Zermatt stood out in particular—the ones where we spent days exploring spectacular trails amid soaring, snow-capped peaks with the iconic Matterhorn watching over us.
The region around Zermatt is a perfect location for a summer hiking holiday. The alpine scenery is superlative, high-level trails are easily reached and the resort itself offers a charming mix of traditional and modern.
In this two-part series, I’ll share a personal travelogue of those visits. Part 1 covers the thrilling journey to Zermatt, the town’s fascinating history, and the story of Edward Whymper, the Victorian mountaineer who made the first ascent of the Matterhorn. Part 2 will focus on the beautiful walks we enjoyed and feature plenty of the mountain scenery photos I captured.
An Exciting Train Journey from Visp
For me, the journey is always part of the adventure, especially when anticipation is at its peak.
Getting to Zermatt is straightforward and spectacular. We discovered that the best route is to fly into Geneva, then board a train to Visp in the Rhône Valley. From there, switch to the narrow-gauge Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn for the final leg up the Mattertal valley to Zermatt.
The Geneva-to-Visp stretch hugs the northern shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), gliding past Lausanne and Montreux before turning southeast through Martigny and on to Visp. The scenery—lake views giving way to vineyards and dramatic valleys—is already a highlight, and the trip takes about 2.5 hours.
At Visp, the real magic begins. The 44 km Brig–Zermatt railway (often called the Visp–Zermatt line) climbs steadily through the valley using a mix of adhesion and rack-and-pinion technology to tackle the steep gradients. Built in response to the 19th-century tourism boom triggered by the Matterhorn’s conquest, it opened in 1891. What once required a long, tiring trek by mule or foot now became accessible. The line was initially summer-only; electrification and year-round service came in the late 1920s.
Arriving in Zermatt & First Impressions
Stepping off the train at Zermatt’s terminus station, we immediately sensed we’d arrived somewhere special. The streets buzzed with visitors, yet the resort still felt refreshingly serene thanks to its car-free policy. Private vehicles must stop in Täsch (about 5 km down the valley), with only electric taxis and service vehicles allowed in town. The result? Pollution-free air that makes every breath feel alpine-pure.
The village blends old-world charm with modern comforts: narrow cobbled streets, traditional wooden chalets, and flower-filled balconies sit alongside excellent hotels, shops, bars, and restaurants. Despite its popularity, Zermatt retained its soul—an authentic alpine village nestled at the foot of the giants.
Zermatt’s History and Heritage
Zermatt started life as a modest farming settlement in the Mattertal valley, known locally as “Zur Matte”—meaning “on the meadow” or “by the grassy alpine pastures.” Human presence in the wider area dates back to Mesolithic and Neolithic times, with the Theodul Pass serving as an ancient trade route.
For centuries, families lived self-sufficiently in scattered hamlets like Zmutt, tending livestock and storing hay in distinctive larch-wood barns (Stadel or Gädi) raised on stone stilts to deter rodents. Many of these 300–500-year-old structures still dot the landscape today, offering a glimpse into pre-tourism life.
All that changed in 1865 with Edward Whymper’s historic first ascent of the Matterhorn. The event thrust the remote village into the global spotlight, igniting the “golden age” of alpinism and drawing British and European climbers in droves. Hotels sprang up (the Monte Rosa opened as early as 1839), and the railway’s arrival in 1891 supercharged the boom. Skiing added another dimension in the early 20th century, with the first ski club forming in 1908 and an official ski school in 1929.
Wandering the compact centre reveals living history at every turn—perfect short detours between hikes or train rides:
- Parish Church of St. Mauritius (dating to 1285, with later rebuilds): Its adjacent Mountaineers’ Cemetery is especially moving, honouring climbers who lost their lives in the Alps, including members of Whymper’s team and many local guides. The inscriptions speak powerfully of risk, respect, and the mountains’ unforgiving beauty.
- Historic Chalets and Barns: Explore the old quarters for well-preserved 16th–18th-century wooden houses and stilted granaries. Look out for the Marmot Fountain (Prato Borni) on Church Square, installed in 1906.
- Other Gems: The English Church (St. Peter’s), built for early British visitors, plus alphorn sculptures and small chapels that add to the timeless, almost sacred atmosphere.
The Matterhorn: Icon of the Alps
Often called the most beautiful mountain in the world, the Matterhorn (4,478 m / 14,692 ft) is instantly recognisable—its near-symmetrical pyramidal shape with four steep faces aligned roughly to the cardinal directions. It has two summits separated by a short rocky crest marking the Swiss-Italian border and boasts significant topographic prominence and isolation.
Its fame was cemented early: John Ruskin painted what may be the first notable artwork of it in 1849, and Whymper himself captured dramatic photographs shortly after his 1865 climb (some long thought lost and only published decades later).
The normal ascent route starts from the Hörnli Hut (3,260 m), reachable from the mountain ‘tarn’ known as Schwarzsee. While energetic hikers can tackle the path to the hut it is nevertheless classified as a technical alpine route. Parts of the walk are steep, quite exposed with cliff edges and drop offs. A head for heights is required. On one of our visits we instead took a guided walk from Schwarzsee, taking an easier route descending down to the base of the valley to Furi and then back to Zermatt. We were led by an elderly mountain guide who pointed out features of interest on the mountain slopes and told us tales about the many times he had scaled the Matterhorn.
Edward Whymper: Triumph and Tragedy on the Matterhorn
No story of Zermatt is complete without Edward Whymper (1840–1911), the driven Victorian engraver-turned-mountaineer who became synonymous with the peak.
Born in London, Whymper trained as a wood engraver like his father. In 1860, a commission to illustrate Alpine landscapes drew him to Switzerland and sparked his passion for climbing. Between 1861 and 1865, he achieved several first ascents in the region while making repeated (unsuccessful) attempts on the Matterhorn, competing with Italian guide Jean-Antoine Carrel.
On 13 July 1865, Whymper’s team of seven set out from Zermatt: Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, Rev. Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, guide Michel Croz, and local guides Peter Taugwalder and his son. They bivouacked high on the Hörnli ridge before pushing on at dawn on the 14th. By early afternoon, Whymper and Croz reached the summit first—only to spot Carrel’s rival party far below on the Italian side. Carrel’s group turned back but summited from their route three days later.
The descent proved catastrophic. About an hour down, the least experienced climber, Hadow, slipped and dislodged Croz. The fall pulled Hudson and Douglas with them. Whymper and the two Taugwalders braced, but the rope between the groups snapped, sending the four men plummeting to their deaths. The survivors reached Zermatt the next morning.
Controversy erupted immediately. Questions arose about the rope (one of the weaker ones, possibly used as a spare), and rumours—even suggestions of deliberate cutting—circulated in the press. A local inquiry cleared the survivors of blame, but the tragedy haunted public opinion and is often seen as marking the end of alpinism’s “golden age.”
Whymper went on to explore further (Greenland, the Andes, Canadian Rockies), write classic books like Scrambles Amongst the Alps (illustrated with his own engravings), and produce the popular A Guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. He died in 1911 while visiting Chamonix.
The guide book is fascinating. Originally published in 1874, I bought this much later facsimile while browsing one of the bookshops in Zermatt. The book is a mine of information giving a lot of factual detail about Zermatt village and the surrounding area, as well as some of the individuals he knew. It covers his many attempts at climbing the Matterhorn and contains some of his wonderful illustrations and maps. I particularly enjoy reading the many old advertisements included in the reprint — S.W. Norman of Belgrave Mansions near Victoria for reliable boots for alpine climbing, or Ross Ltd of New Bond Street for mountaineering equipment such as photographic outfits, aneroid barometers, compasses and eye glasses to name but two examples.
Reflecting on the Story So Far
Hearing Whymper’s tale leaves you with profound respect for these pioneers. They tackled the unknown with rudimentary gear, sheer determination, and no modern safety nets. The Matterhorn has since been climbed thousands of times, yet it has claimed over 500 lives— a sobering reminder of the mountains’ power.
For us, though, Zermatt offered a gentler side: spectacular yet accessible trails where we could soak in the same breathtaking scenery without the extreme risks. In Part 2, I’ll share details of those wonderful walks and more of my favourite photos.